Worked great on my Tiguan. Worth every penny.

Excellent product. The dealer said the hesitation was normal. However after using this the change was amazing. Smooth start up and idle plus power at 30-50mph. 2016 Hyundai GDI santa fe

Great product for intake manifold maintenance on GDI engines. Only improvement would be an applicator like the Berryman's intake cleaner kit has.

Just used it on my car and I'm hoping it works. Car is at 100K miles first time ever using this type of product. After it was done heat soaking for an hour I went to drive it and it started smoking a lot and engine knocking then the car turned off on its own. Started it back up and it ran like normal so I'm hoping that was just a bunch of carbon buildup being burned off.

Skeptical at first but after following the instructions and driving the car at highway speeds for 10 minutes, power was restored. First heavy throttle merging on the highway Im pretty sure I smoked out the car behind me and I could hear the carbon being pushed out like little crunchy noises. Will use again every 10-15k miles. Highly recommend and please follow instructions and let it heat soak for the given time.

I have an older car, 1 1994 probe gt and had my intake manifold off in order to do valve cover gaskets...Since the intake was off ,I noticed a Large amount of sludgey buildup and some carbon on the intake runners and on the engine itself, the intake valve ports were sludgey and the valves themselves had moderate buildup..This car has 250,000 mi and this kind of cleaning has Never been done b4 on it..I made sure the valves were closed and sprayed only a small amount of the cleaner, enough to cover bottom of valves..I did Not fill up each port.. I then used a simple tooth brush and scrubbed the port and valve.. this CRC stuff kinds instantly dissolves varnish and sludge..I Did prescrape off the heaviest deposits in each port B4 spraying...what I noticed is it reacts favorably and quickly with buildup and just melts it..if u add a little work with the toothbrush as well, I was able to get pretty clean ports and valves were deposit free..Now I dont have a GDI car and from pics ive seen, the buildup that occurs there is really aweful, worse than mine for sure...However, this CRC seems useful to dissolve valve buildup thats in a sludgey state, mine wasnt carbonized hard but the softer type.. its also good for throttlebody and intake manifold cleaning...actually when I had manifold off, I sprayed it inside with brake cleaner which also works well, however I was concerned about daring to use it on the valves for fear of damaging the valve seals, thus I sprung for the CRC which is known safe..I dont know how well it would work on GDI cars sprayed into a vaccum hose while car is running? but if you are able to apply it directly to the valves let it soak a few mins, use a toothbrush, then I wet vacced it outta there and wiped the port and valve squeaky clean...it works That way.,.

Idk much about this product. My husband does! It was a great money value, for my husband it was easy to use understand! Helped car run better longer! Good mileage

I have a 2017 ford fiesta 1.0 ecoboost with 185k miles. Started getting some valve noise from carbon build up. Also had a rough idle especially when the ac was on. Followed instructions and problems gone. Also noticed an increase in mpg. Would definitely recommend and have bought more for other vehicles.

This product does the job for vehicles that have direct injection . Must be done every 15k miles since fuel does not pass over intake valves on th ese engines . Very easy to do through the intake vacuum port . Saves money vs taking vehicle to have it done at a shop .

I bought 4 cans since I have 4 cars in the family. I used it 1st on daughters 2015 beetle which has 75k miles but still runs great she noticed a slight drop in fuel economy. I removed the MAP sprayed in that port car ran erratically since I didn't unplug the MAP. I did get a some white smoke at tailpipe, after 1 hr hot soak drove it for 20 mins didn't really see any smoke at the tail pipe but car ran fine it did seem to be more responsive. The next day I changed the oil, filter spark plugs. The plugs seems clean not much deposits, forgot to take pics of the plugs.On the 2006 Toyota Avalon the car is port injected I add Berryman B12 every 3 months so it's always run great. It has 145k mile at 90k I had the engine pulled out to replace gaskets, VVT supply line with new steel line, spark plugs, drive belts, water pump, engine mounts and host of other wear items. So it's well maintained, I was hoping this product would get fuel economy back to 32 mpg like 3 yrs ago, but so far no change.Overall I believe this is a good product for GDI poorly maintained port injection cars

2011 E350 Mercedes GDI 153k. Sprayed in via PVC valve to avoid MAF sensor (can sprays at any angle) kept engine RPM at 2k while spraying, at empty can then idled for 60 seconds. Let it hot soak for 1 hour. Started car very rough hard idle then went on highway (10 minutes kept RPM between 2k-3.5k) first had a HUGE smoke screen for the first 1/2 mile and some smoke for the next couple of miles. Car runs idles much better will do a second treatment as recommended in 5K. Short version it worked and was easy.

Yes there was pinging/knocking, it through codes and went in to limp mode, I pulled over shut the car off then started it back up and continued to drive, there was still a little pinging but as I drove it went away,noticeably better idle and acceleration, I drove like 30 minutes with a few hard acceleration pulls just to make sure all the residualwere dried up for the most part, by the time my drive was over I had not noticed no pinging or knocking and it was running great, if anything negative comes out of it I will update

Will see

Wife's Buick Enclave had multiple misfires. After cleaning the valves with this product, carefully following the directions, the error codes are gone. This stuff works and comes ready to use with a very convenient spraying nozzle. I buy it at a better price elsewhere.

I like the product very much.thanks

I would highly recommend this product to anyone with a GDI engine.

Automotive shop owner. Mechanic and auto worker of 21 years. 10 years building and developing street legal race and high performance engines.I want to clarify a couple things for the DIYers and the masses new to EFI engines, carbon cleaning, direct injection, etc. These should also address why some folks are complaining of knocking/pinging/engine issues after using the product, which is in fact, completely normal for what is happening, and is both temporary and manageable.1) Gasoline combustion engines are a messy deal. There is a ton of carbon residue produced on the valves, combustion chambers and pistons from just one tank of fuel. Folks who don't work on engines or do rebuilds won't understand or appreciate this right away,For fun, hop on YouTube and track down ProjectFarm. He's an engineer who does very controlled testing of chemicals and products in his shop. You can see actual footage comparing the amount of carbon produced or controlled by a given cleaning agent (including CRC), using an actual engine that's torn down after each test.2) The ideal service interval for carbon cleaning on an ICE (combustion engine) is every 30-40k miles, but some folks will do it more often, and this is fine. It is needed more often when weaker, lower quality fuels are used regularly (more on this in a moment).3) The LONGER you go without doing some form of carbon cleaning, the more buildup gets caked onto your valves, intake runners (of the cylinder head), and pistons. The more buildup, the harder it is for ANY concentrated spray cleaner to address.4) Using top tier fuels makes a HUGE difference in management of carbon buildup. Top tier is not the same os octane, which is a fuel's resistance to detonation. Top tier = product quality.A quality fuel from Shell, Chevron, Exxon, etc has a unique additive package which includes detergents - critical cleaning agents that help reduce the amount of carbon left behind from normal engine operation.So if you're the type of consumer using cheap, crappy fuel from WalMart, Sam's, Costco, your local grocery store, and other cut rate places...you're getting the most basic fuel, with no additive packages. You're effectively getting what you paid for. And it will be a messy workspace inside that engine after a few tanks of this stuff,5) After an induction cleaning, and a hot soak, the first test drive is NOT a great event for about 10-minutes. Not because of the smoke coming out the back, but because the engine is extremely vulnerable to pre-detonation initially (also called pinging or knocking). It will usually knock and ping like crazy for the first 2-5 miles.6) This is a TEMPORARY condition. Drive carefully with the windows UP, radio off, and AC/heat fan set to low. You need to be able to HEAR and listen for the knock. It will change proportionately with engine load and your right foot on the gas.To the novice, it may sound like leaves being ground up under your hood. It's actually small combustion events happening at the WRONG moments and locations.7) The test drive after treatment is to help clear the deposits out and finish burning off stubborn bits of carbon. These deposits are responsible for producing the hot spots on pistons and valves that INDUCE unwanted knock. So drive carefully, gradually introducing as much throttle and air as the motor will allow without pinging too aggressively,8) Eventually, the pinging always calms down and subsides. Then the engine runs notably, remarkably BETTER than it did before the cleaning.This has been the case for me with Sea Foam's spray induction cleaner, CRC products, and others, used across a very wide range of naturally aspirated and turbocharged engines.A lot of the grievances on AMZ reviews here are from:-Folks using poor fuels which are super messy over time-Folks going way too long without some type of carbon cleaning/fuel system service-Folks who weren't properly informed on what to expect during and after a carbon cleaning.Hope this helps some folks! Don't be afraid, just be self-educated and prepared.BONUS:For the DIY crowd who doesn't have a way to regulate the throttle and engine speed using a high dollar scan tool...A 16-24 long piece of fairly thin, lightweight wood, carefully inserted between the driver seat and gas pedal, can be used to set the RPM of the motor to a steady-state. Put the seat all the way back and start walking it forward to take out slack and press against the gas pedal.Cars with power seats have the easiest outcome for this, as the power seats let you get a very fine adjustment back and forth to set your throttle input.I run the motor at 2500-2800rpm and have had excellent results across dozens of EFI induction cleans on customer cars.Good luck!

You can feel the difference. It feels a little rough on the car when you take it out for the 10 min spirited drive. You will see smoke out of the exhaust during the drive, then it clears up and the car starts to get more hrspwrs. But seriously its a good product and it works.

My car seems to run better and get better mpg after this. I'll do a follow up after 1k and installing an oil catch can so this doesn't happen again.

Improved my gas mlg by 0.3 MLS to gallon. An can tell the engine runs smoother. A little pricy but nothing compared if preventing major problems down the vehicle owning road.