Worked great on my Tiguan. Worth every penny.

Excellent product. The dealer said the hesitation was normal. However after using this the change was amazing. Smooth start up and idle plus power at 30-50mph. 2016 Hyundai GDI santa fe

Skeptical at first but after following the instructions and driving the car at highway speeds for 10 minutes, power was restored. First heavy throttle merging on the highway Im pretty sure I smoked out the car behind me and I could hear the carbon being pushed out like little crunchy noises. Will use again every 10-15k miles. Highly recommend and please follow instructions and let it heat soak for the given time.

I have a 2017 ford fiesta 1.0 ecoboost with 185k miles. Started getting some valve noise from carbon build up. Also had a rough idle especially when the ac was on. Followed instructions and problems gone. Also noticed an increase in mpg. Would definitely recommend and have bought more for other vehicles.

This product does the job for vehicles that have direct injection . Must be done every 15k miles since fuel does not pass over intake valves on th ese engines . Very easy to do through the intake vacuum port . Saves money vs taking vehicle to have it done at a shop .

2011 E350 Mercedes GDI 153k. Sprayed in via PVC valve to avoid MAF sensor (can sprays at any angle) kept engine RPM at 2k while spraying, at empty can then idled for 60 seconds. Let it hot soak for 1 hour. Started car very rough hard idle then went on highway (10 minutes kept RPM between 2k-3.5k) first had a HUGE smoke screen for the first 1/2 mile and some smoke for the next couple of miles. Car runs idles much better will do a second treatment as recommended in 5K. Short version it worked and was easy.

Yes there was pinging/knocking, it through codes and went in to limp mode, I pulled over shut the car off then started it back up and continued to drive, there was still a little pinging but as I drove it went away,noticeably better idle and acceleration, I drove like 30 minutes with a few hard acceleration pulls just to make sure all the residualwere dried up for the most part, by the time my drive was over I had not noticed no pinging or knocking and it was running great, if anything negative comes out of it I will update

Wife's Buick Enclave had multiple misfires. After cleaning the valves with this product, carefully following the directions, the error codes are gone. This stuff works and comes ready to use with a very convenient spraying nozzle. I buy it at a better price elsewhere.

I like the product very much.thanks

I would highly recommend this product to anyone with a GDI engine.

Automotive shop owner. Mechanic and auto worker of 21 years. 10 years building and developing street legal race and high performance engines.I want to clarify a couple things for the DIYers and the masses new to EFI engines, carbon cleaning, direct injection, etc. These should also address why some folks are complaining of knocking/pinging/engine issues after using the product, which is in fact, completely normal for what is happening, and is both temporary and manageable.1) Gasoline combustion engines are a messy deal. There is a ton of carbon residue produced on the valves, combustion chambers and pistons from just one tank of fuel. Folks who don't work on engines or do rebuilds won't understand or appreciate this right away,For fun, hop on YouTube and track down ProjectFarm. He's an engineer who does very controlled testing of chemicals and products in his shop. You can see actual footage comparing the amount of carbon produced or controlled by a given cleaning agent (including CRC), using an actual engine that's torn down after each test.2) The ideal service interval for carbon cleaning on an ICE (combustion engine) is every 30-40k miles, but some folks will do it more often, and this is fine. It is needed more often when weaker, lower quality fuels are used regularly (more on this in a moment).3) The LONGER you go without doing some form of carbon cleaning, the more buildup gets caked onto your valves, intake runners (of the cylinder head), and pistons. The more buildup, the harder it is for ANY concentrated spray cleaner to address.4) Using top tier fuels makes a HUGE difference in management of carbon buildup. Top tier is not the same os octane, which is a fuel's resistance to detonation. Top tier = product quality.A quality fuel from Shell, Chevron, Exxon, etc has a unique additive package which includes detergents - critical cleaning agents that help reduce the amount of carbon left behind from normal engine operation.So if you're the type of consumer using cheap, crappy fuel from WalMart, Sam's, Costco, your local grocery store, and other cut rate places...you're getting the most basic fuel, with no additive packages. You're effectively getting what you paid for. And it will be a messy workspace inside that engine after a few tanks of this stuff,5) After an induction cleaning, and a hot soak, the first test drive is NOT a great event for about 10-minutes. Not because of the smoke coming out the back, but because the engine is extremely vulnerable to pre-detonation initially (also called pinging or knocking). It will usually knock and ping like crazy for the first 2-5 miles.6) This is a TEMPORARY condition. Drive carefully with the windows UP, radio off, and AC/heat fan set to low. You need to be able to HEAR and listen for the knock. It will change proportionately with engine load and your right foot on the gas.To the novice, it may sound like leaves being ground up under your hood. It's actually small combustion events happening at the WRONG moments and locations.7) The test drive after treatment is to help clear the deposits out and finish burning off stubborn bits of carbon. These deposits are responsible for producing the hot spots on pistons and valves that INDUCE unwanted knock. So drive carefully, gradually introducing as much throttle and air as the motor will allow without pinging too aggressively,8) Eventually, the pinging always calms down and subsides. Then the engine runs notably, remarkably BETTER than it did before the cleaning.This has been the case for me with Sea Foam's spray induction cleaner, CRC products, and others, used across a very wide range of naturally aspirated and turbocharged engines.A lot of the grievances on AMZ reviews here are from:-Folks using poor fuels which are super messy over time-Folks going way too long without some type of carbon cleaning/fuel system service-Folks who weren't properly informed on what to expect during and after a carbon cleaning.Hope this helps some folks! Don't be afraid, just be self-educated and prepared.BONUS:For the DIY crowd who doesn't have a way to regulate the throttle and engine speed using a high dollar scan tool...A 16-24 long piece of fairly thin, lightweight wood, carefully inserted between the driver seat and gas pedal, can be used to set the RPM of the motor to a steady-state. Put the seat all the way back and start walking it forward to take out slack and press against the gas pedal.Cars with power seats have the easiest outcome for this, as the power seats let you get a very fine adjustment back and forth to set your throttle input.I run the motor at 2500-2800rpm and have had excellent results across dozens of EFI induction cleans on customer cars.Good luck!

My car seems to run better and get better mpg after this. I'll do a follow up after 1k and installing an oil catch can so this doesn't happen again.

Improved my gas mlg by 0.3 MLS to gallon. An can tell the engine runs smoother. A little pricy but nothing compared if preventing major problems down the vehicle owning road.

I run a can of this the day before every oil change (7-9k miles) Drive 40 miles to work. I've now got almost 70k on it and none of the hesitartion and other symptoms DI engines are know for yet.

Great for GDI motors( there's 80 million on the road)

My car is performing great

I use this product every 10,000 miles. After applying it, the engine runs much smoother. I can only assume this is the direct result of clean valves.The CDC Valve and Turbo Cleaner is made from the same detergents found in gasoline. In a low pressure fuel injected car, gasoline goes over the valves. High quality gasoline includes detergents to keep the engine clean. Direct Injected cars / trucks put the fuel directly into the cylinder. This means the valves are not cleaned by the detergents in the gasoline. CDC Valve and Turbo Cleaner (VTC) solves the problem.The first time I applied the product (VTC), I saw gunk on the rear of my car. This presumably came from the valves. The next time I applied the product, I did not notice the gunk on my car. To me, this is an indication VTC is working.The first two times, I disassembled the intake to spray VTC into the intake. The third time, I found a vacuum line (brake booster) and applied the product to the vacuum line. Applying though the vacuum line is the easiest way to spray the product into the upper engine. However, this means only the exhaust side of the turbo is cleaned.I have not removed the intake manifold and used a borescope to inspect the valves. That's a bit more than I want to do. I judge the product on the way my car runs. Based on this, CRC Valve and Turbo Cleaner does its job.

Good product at a good price.

I used this on my 2011 F-150 3.5 Liter turbo moter. It is designed exactly for this type of GDI turbo cleaning. Caused no harm and seems to idle a bit better afterward. Although it did not idle rough before. I used this in the 120,000 mile tune up.

This is not a cure for a neglected high mileage engine but as a preventative maintenance solution, it works great. After 33,000 miles on my vehicle, bore scope reveled that there was no visible carbon build in the cylinders or valves.Just follow the directions and use it just before every oil change. Y