Sounds great! used to replace in my 2004 Lexus LS430 UL. had to modify it a little and make sure it was wired up properly to achieve the same ohms as the factory as a previous reviewer stated, or you can blow the amp.

This speaker has a very respectable Fs for an 8'. The dual coil configurabilty makes it very flexible. I'm using my as a 4 ohm. Only issue is that the material that holds the terminal lugs to the housing is a bit weak. I had to hot glue one back in place. Just be careful when attaching the wires.

I got for my Lexus 2004 ls 430 used for blown subwoofer sounds great!!

Good replacement subwoofer in my Lexus SC 430

AWESOME OEM rear sub enclosure (gray and clear plastic) replacement...like wow!!

Love the ability to change the ohms With dual coil

Legit ls430 sub replacement

It was plug-and-play after I jumped speaker wires

Incorporated this sub in a DIY boom box using a Cerwin Vega subwoofer crossover. Quality and sound are very good.

I purchased this subwoofer for a factory replacement in my 2001 Suburban. It is not a direct fit for the factory subwoofer box, but I did some fabrication and made it work. Product quality is very good, sounds decent and well worth what I paid for it. Recommend to anyone

Good little $30 replacement sub for my small standard cab mini-truck sub box. Replaced a 25 year worn out 834; old Pyle driver. Better base and I like the dual voice coil option. Works great with my 25 year old stereo amp.

works as it should

A great replacement speaker for my Infinity BU-1 subwoofer.

UPDATE [8 months later]: It's been almost eight months since i replaced the old subwoofer in my vehicle with this Dayton model. That and i've put about 15,000 miles in my LS 430 (i drive lots). Again, it has been flawless in sound reproduction and more importantly (to me at this point) the stock decade-plus old Mark Levinson amplifier in my vehicle has never cracked under the pressure of me turning it up loudly. And i do listen to my stuff at above average volumes. Seriously, if you have a broken LS 430 subwoofer you could either a- spend about 10 bux to fix it with glue (which honestly will probably go bad again since it's still beating beat down by the sun when you drive) or b- spend the $30 to get this and replace it with one as good as the one that came with the vehicle and not worry about it. Or heaven forbid c- pay the ridiculous prices for a new Mark Levinson subwoofer on eBay. Purchased to replace a blown subwoofer in my vehicles rear deck. I purchased this specifically over the recommended Polk db840DVC because the Dayton had the capability to wire for 16 ohm impedance, of which the OEM was rated for as well. Versus the Polk which could only manage 8 ohms with it's dual 4 ohm coils. For about thirty bucks or so it's so far met and exceeded my expectations. It's not quite as musical as an HSU subwoofer for example and exhibits a one-note-wonder type of sound, but I'm willing to forgive that as it's installed in a less-then-ideal place (under the rear window in a small metal cavity completely undampened) than for what it's originally intended for (a properly made and designed subwoofer enclosure). All in all im satisfied with its performance. It gets QUITE loud even for my tastes, and thankfully the stock amplifier (of over 13 years) seems to be able to power it without breaking much of a sweat. Enough to rattle my center mirror at least. PS: while not a 100 drop in replacement for the LS 430 subwoofer, you can install this without cutting, drilling, or otherwise modifying anything to the car beyond the stock two-piece plastic frame that houses the OEM subwoofer. The difference being that the two plastic frame assemblies that are used to hold the OEM sub is configured differently. I didn't take note of how it was originally oriented, but right now both frames are above the subwoofer opening, pushing down on the Dayton subwoofer frame. This also means that the screw mounts are higher above than original. But they are still long enough to screw down the plastic frame and hold the Dayton sub in place without much issue. No gluing, no cutting or anything (i didnt have any silicone or material to do so, but i might have done so if i did just to be safe). Also basic soldering skills are required to connect fresh new wires to the OEM power connector as well as to wire the sub correctly.