Honeywell V8043E1012 24v Zone Valve (3/4" Sweat, 2 Pos, N/C, Auxsw W/18" Leadwires) 3.5 Cv 4 Wires (2 Red & 2 Yellow) Replaces MZV525E, Price/each

Product is as expected. Original lasted 18 years.

AOK

Given how important it is to me to have these things actually work reliably, I only buy the actual Honeywell valves and not the knockoff brands in the same form factor. The valve body itself is rock solid - I've never had a problem with one. The motors I've had fail over the years; fortunately when that happens you can replace JUST the motor onto your existing valve body if the valve itself is still working fine (make sure it isn't seized or difficult to turn, or that could've been the problem in the first place!) The Honeywells are significantly more expensive than the knockoffs, but the construction is precise for replacement and they do seem to last longer.One of these days I'll remember to order a spare so I can swap it immediately when it fails instead of having to order one ... ;-)

One of my two zones would open when the thermostat called for heat, but wouldn't initiate the boiler and circulator to turn on due to the metal arm not pressing on the micro switch in the head. These are known to wear out over time and it's been about 12 years since it was first put in service, so it's not a bad amount of time considering how often it gets used during the heating season.All I needed in my situation was the controller head and not the brass valve, so the swap was very easy and it fixed the problem immediately.

The unit I bought was sold by Maintak. I can't say whether you will get the same unit from other sellers. But the one I received looked like a genuine Honeywell unit. See the five pictures. The first two show the new unit against an existing one, from two different angles. Even the specs labeling looks like the real thing.The end switch on my old zone valve started to exhibit bad contacts, and it kept getting worse. When the thermostat called for heat, 9 out of ten times the end switch would not make on first attempt, even though the actuator motored worked, gears turned, and the valve actually opened fully. The end switch was pressed in completely by the metal tab, but contact wasn't made. Sometimes half way through the air handling churning cold air, the end switch would make contact and turn on the furnace. Sometimes it doesn't.It wasn't worthwhile to try to replace just the end switch. It is said that by the time the end switch fails, other parts of the actuator part may be ready to retire as well. So I bought an entire unit, but used only the actuator part. The replacement took very little time. But that's because I watched a few YouTube videos ahead of time. You should too. See pictures 3 through 5 for the replacement. See picture 3 for the comparison of valve bodies, old and new - but I continue to use the old valve body. Quick tip: manually open the valve with the manual lever, before you try to pull the actuator assembly off the valve body, and when installing the new actuator back. It releases the tension between the two components, making your work a breeze.After the replacement, the end switch reliably makes every single time. And I now have spare parts for everything else beside the failed end switch. Considering the ease of replacement, and the quality of components, plus the money I didn't have to pay a plumber to do the work, it was a no-brainer to just replace the entire actuator myself, even if only the end switch failed.

These parts were for my brand new furnace I put in the price was great exactly what I was looking for work perfect and got them fast. Thank you.