Fasco A168 Blower, 115V, Sp.1, Price/each

I used a 1' piece of pvc and some 2 part plastic epoxy to make this into a Jakel 110533-00 replacement. Working good. Saved me $500.If you are handy, it can be done.Thanks to the guy above with the recommendation.

One of the cheaper replacement options for the inducer motor in our Lennox furnace. Had all same mounting holes and plugs as the old motor. Came with several gasket options for the backside of it where it attaches to collector box. Runs a lot quieter than the old one it replaced. Also replaced the pressure switch at the same time as this was recommended.

It fixed my problem and is much quieter than the one in my furnace

THANK YOU

My older gas water heater started to sound like a low-cost air compressor, and I tracked the noise to the motor shaft bearings of the power vent/draft inducer. Some of those can be rebuilt, but my Jakel 110533-00 specifically says “do not reuse” on the blower. Searching for the entire assembly to fit my Lochinvar heater, I found that to cost $600-800, and a whole new heater is only $1200. Finding a supposed-exact replacement for just the blower assembly was $350-400, but it didn't look right and that is still too costly for a repair on a 15 year old machine. I found this assembly at $128, and it appears to be a match, however only one side of it is visible in the photo.When I got it, I found that the mounting holes match perfectly and have slots for adjustability. It will mount up! Butan integral pipe nipple found on my old one is not present here. It is instead a 2” hole. This one is for a furnace and therefore cannot attach to the mating housing on my heater. Rather than send it back, I went to the hardware and picked up a barbed, straight pipe joint used for black water pipe. I cut about 2” off the barbed end and used a two-part plastic epoxy to permanently attach it in the hole. The taper of the barb allowed a perfect engagement without allowing it to go deep enough to interfere with the blower wheel. I also placed adhesive foam over the joint to help seal it, although it shouldn't matter as it is on the negative pressure side of the wheel. This left me a nipple protruding, but of a slightly too-small diameter. I cut off the original nipple which fit over it just fine. I used a piece of adhesive foam around the back of that, and fixed it into the opposite-side housing using the original screw-clamp assembly. Now I have a reparable slip-fit connection, just like original, that seals up when this blower assembly is bolted into its bracket.Now, it also has a mounting ledge for a pressure switch, but no pre-drilled holes in the ledge. That was quick work with a 5/8” spade bit for the sensor, and 2 starter holes for the mounting screws. Lastly I had to create a couple of pigtail wires as the ones on here didn't quite reach the motor controller, but they use standard spade connectors and crimpers that most handy people have around the house.It sounds worse than it was, and you can save serious dough by making it fit. Just keep in mind which side is suction and which side is pressure, and keep all those fumes going where they are supposed to!4 stars until I see how long it lasts, and because it should have had some way to attach SOMETHING to the output side. Good luck! Now I am off to take a HOT shower!

Everything worked well