UPDATE [8 months later]: It's been almost eight months since i replaced the old subwoofer in my vehicle with this Dayton model. That and i've put about 15,000 miles in my LS 430 (i drive lots). Again, it has been flawless in sound reproduction and more importantly (to me at this point) the stock decade-plus old Mark Levinson amplifier in my vehicle has never cracked under the pressure of me turning it up loudly. And i do listen to my stuff at above average volumes. Seriously, if you have a broken LS 430 subwoofer you could either a- spend about 10 bux to fix it with glue (which honestly will probably go bad again since it's still beating beat down by the sun when you drive) or b- spend the $30 to get this and replace it with one as good as the one that came with the vehicle and not worry about it. Or heaven forbid c- pay the ridiculous prices for a new Mark Levinson subwoofer on eBay. Purchased to replace a blown subwoofer in my vehicles rear deck. I purchased this specifically over the recommended Polk db840DVC because the Dayton had the capability to wire for 16 ohm impedance, of which the OEM was rated for as well. Versus the Polk which could only manage 8 ohms with it's dual 4 ohm coils. For about thirty bucks or so it's so far met and exceeded my expectations. It's not quite as musical as an HSU subwoofer for example and exhibits a one-note-wonder type of sound, but I'm willing to forgive that as it's installed in a less-then-ideal place (under the rear window in a small metal cavity completely undampened) than for what it's originally intended for (a properly made and designed subwoofer enclosure). All in all im satisfied with its performance. It gets QUITE loud even for my tastes, and thankfully the stock amplifier (of over 13 years) seems to be able to power it without breaking much of a sweat. Enough to rattle my center mirror at least. PS: while not a 100 drop in replacement for the LS 430 subwoofer, you can install this without cutting, drilling, or otherwise modifying anything to the car beyond the stock two-piece plastic frame that houses the OEM subwoofer. The difference being that the two plastic frame assemblies that are used to hold the OEM sub is configured differently. I didn't take note of how it was originally oriented, but right now both frames are above the subwoofer opening, pushing down on the Dayton subwoofer frame. This also means that the screw mounts are higher above than original. But they are still long enough to screw down the plastic frame and hold the Dayton sub in place without much issue. No gluing, no cutting or anything (i didnt have any silicone or material to do so, but i might have done so if i did just to be safe). Also basic soldering skills are required to connect fresh new wires to the OEM power connector as well as to wire the sub correctly.
Rating:
[5 of 5 Stars!]